Your Dog needs You to be prepared.

Recent World Events brings to mind the peril facing domesticated pets in natural disasters.

A disaster does not need to be on the epic scale of the tsunami in Japan or Hurricane Katrina to put people and animals in dire distress.  We’ve all seen images of the dogs from Katrina and remember stories from other disasters. In the last year alone I can think of a huge number of disasters worldwide,  Floods, Hurricanes, Forest Fires, Ice-storms, Extreme heat, Extreme cold,  earthquakes, tornados whatever; having a plan and making provisions for yourself and your pet in an emergency is more than responsible it is essential.  Some things can’t be prepared for, but doing everything you can to protect yourself, your family and your pets will never be a wasted exercise. There is no better website to suggest than the Disaster Preparedness Guide from the Borzoi Club of America. No matter where you live there are tips, guides, info and suggestions that can be applied to any pet anywhere. Print out the kit list and get it put together you will be so glad you did.

http://www.borzoiclubofamerica.org/readyborzoi/BCOA_ReadyBorzoi.html

Most of us hopefully won’t ever have to face a life and death emergency where evacuation is necessary. There are less serious events such as a bad storm or a tornado that can cause prolonged loss of electricity. Having food on hand that is portable and easy, requiring no refrigeration is essential for you and your animals. Whether or not your dogs are on a raw diet having an emergency supply of fresh good quality kibble on hand is a good idea. I would suggest esp. if kibble use is only occasional to buy grain free & a protein percentage of about 22-24% (it is a little difficult to find grain free that doesn’t have an extremely high protein percentage, I use a kibble that is wheat,corn & soy free but does have brown rice.) Use as a training treat or cookie treat to prevent it from going stale or bad. Kibble keeps well in the freezer and should be kept there if you are only feeding occasionally. The more variety your dog is accustomed to the easier it will be in difficult circumstances to take care of your dogs dietary needs. There are a number of good options including dehydrated food just needing water to be reconstituted and usually with a long shelf life with the added bonus of being light in weight.

Make a list, set up the  Dog’s Comprehensive First Aid Emergency Kit from an earlier post on this blog copied here and added to for your convenience. A couple of items which I think should be added  are an X-pen or soft crate with lightweight bedding and shade cloth.

• Vet Contact information, record of dog’s immunizations (I always keep at least a copy in car’s glove box)
• Surgical gloves non latex
• Bandages, sterile gauze pads, gauze rolls, and hypo-allergenic adhesive tape for treating wounds.
• Vet wrap Sticks to itself, won’t absorb water. Available in many colours. Take care not to wrap too tightly
• Hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent USP (to induce vomiting)
• Electrolytes eg. Pedialyte (powder or liquid) useful for humans and dogs to help prevent or treat dehydration
• Roast baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe (to administer peroxide)
• Saline eye solution does double duty, treat eyes & cleanse wounds
• Artificial tears gel (to lubricate eyes after flushing)
• Mild dish soap (for bathing an animal after skin contamination)
• Hand sanitizer (can be used to clean wound in a pinch)
• Lubricant (such as KY® Jelly) – helps hold fur away from wound
• Tweezers (eg. to remove stingers)
• Scissors (blunt ended if dressings need to be removed)
• Styptic powder Styptic powder is an antiseptic clotting agent. When a dog or cats nails are trimmed they can easily be cut too close to the blood vessels.  Much like a styptic pencil which is made of alum, styptic powder stops bleeding by contracting the blood vessels. Most pet groomers and veterinarians keep styptic powder on hand. Styptic powder causes the vessels to contract further back into the claw and also clots the blood. Often sold as ‘Kwik Stop’
• Muzzle to keep dog from biting during treatment
• Soft Cold pack
• Syringe liquid medicine dispenser
• Nail clippers
• Food- cans of your pet’s favourite  food, favourite treats
• Charcoal capsules Activated Charcoal taken internally relieves gas and diarrhea. When given for internal poisoning, it adsorbs toxins and prevents them from entering the bloodstream
• Pepto bismol Bismuth subsalicylate – use to treat mild vomiting and diarrhea in dogs If vomiting and/or diarrhea persists for 48 hours or more; Caution: if the dog has a fever, is listless. appears to have abdominal pain; or does not continue to be alert and active, contact your veterinarian. Dosage Pepto-Bismol reg liquid: Dogs: 0.5-1ml/pound every 6-8 hours Regular strength tablets (often preferred by dogs): 1/4 tablet/20 pounds every 6-8 hours. Treatment should only be needed for 1-2 days.
• Analgesic (Deerhound safe) such as Rimadyl, Metacam, Tramadol (Ultram) Available from vet- use as directed
• Antibiotic ointment
• Manuka honey has high sugar content and produces an antibacterial molecule called hydrogen peroxide, which can be used as a disinfectant. Manuka Honey in particular is especially effective in treating infected wounds and other skin conditions  (look for UMF levelof 16+)
• Thermometer Digital much easier safer than glass (marked exclusively “Dog”) (Normal temperature range 101-102.5)
• Slippery Elm capsules Useful for digestive upsets of all varieties as well as diarrhea and constipation, Slippery Elm soothes and tones tissues while drawing out and eliminating toxins from the body. From mouth to colon, it acts as a lubricant and protectant, making it an excellent choice for any inflammation or ulceration of the gastrointestinal tract.
• Water At least 2 litres drinking water
• Blankets
• Pen light
• Paper towel & Wetwipes
• Poop bags
• Xpen, soft crate or like below dog sun sheltering tent

Dog Haus (Dog Tent) available from Amazon.

If you have the time and the inclination you might like to participate with the Noah’s Wish organization.

http://www.noahswish.info/VolunteerTraining/LocationsDates.html

Noah’s Wish has one mission: to save animals during disasters with our rescue and recovery services and to mitigate the impact of disasters on animals through our educational outreach programs. Like the American Red Cross does for humans, Noah’s Wish shelters, feeds and heals animals who have been affected by major disasters in the USA and Canada, like hurricane Katrina, floods in the Midwest, or wildfires in the West. A not-for-profit organization, Noah’s Wish depends on donations and volunteers to do its lifesaving work. There are 2 day training sessions scheduled in many areas. Visit the website to check for future dates.

Princeton, British Columbia July 9 &10

Loveland, Ohio August 6 & 7

Stillwater, Oklahoma October 1 & 2

Fresno, California October 22 & 23

Addendum to Heat Stroke- Tips to avoid dehydration etc.

• 

  Deerhound crash site

  Buy an outdoor thermometer to keep in your car, I use this as a reality check for myself- do I dare make a quick stop at the store with Cailean in the car? When the temp. is already warm the odds that it will be safe diminish exponentially.

• an early warning sign of mild dehydration is tacky gums (gums feeling a little sticky to your finger instead of moist and slippery)learn how to check  your dogs gum colour and capillary refill time.
• If your dog is at all ill be extra cautious about heat and hydration. Dogs most at risk for dehydration are those who suffer from underlying health conditions such as cancer, kidney disorders, or infectious diseases. Pregnant or nursing dogs may be prone to dehydration, as well as diabetic and elderly dogs.
• a rapid resting hear rate over 140 beats per min. may be an indication of dehydration.
•  Take note of your dog’s water intake.  If you suspect your dog is not drinking enough check the urine colour it should not be dark yellow. Make sure your dog has free access to clean water at all times, change it frequently. Wash your dog’s water bowl daily to prevent the growth of bacteria.
• Need to increase the amount of water your dog is drinking?  Add a few drops of lemon juice or put out a little chilled unsalted broth. Add ice cubes to the water bowl. Dog tempting flavoured ice cubes ideas anyone?? Maybe a little plain yogurt flavoured with vanilla or beef bouillion, I know Stroganoff flavoured frozen yogurt. mmmmm.

Dehydration occurs when fluid loss exceeds fluid intake; conditions that may precipitate fluid loss can be both the temperature of the environment, physical exertion, food consumption, illness and lactaton. There will be times when your dog will be less able to cope with the heat than at other times, ie. a dog that has recently exercised hard, a dog who has had a fever, diarrhea or vomiting, a dog that is under stress and is drooling or panting excessively.

In any case preventing dehydration is the goal.

• provide shade
• unlimited access to fresh water
• cool your dogs body (use a spray bottle or hose on the under side of your dog) do not use a wet cover which traps heat next to the body.

Deerhounds (Cailean) swim if they're hot enough

Heat Exhaustion/ Stroke the potential for Disaster and Heartbreak

Deerhounds are usually quite adept at pretending to be a prone statue if the thermometer reads more than 24 degrees celsius. There are occasions however; as I have found out when common sense gets left at the door (the dogs or mine?) and your lazy somnolent deerhound gets a little overly excited and runs like a mad thing on a very hot sunny day playing with  his/her friends. All kidding aside sighthounds have been known to run themselves to death due to heatstroke on the track and in pursuit of game. I am always mindful when hiking through natural areas that Cailean might suddenly remember that she really is a sighthound and has the potential to be a formidable predator.  It might not seem like it during a record breaking rainy spring but the inevitable scorching heat of summer will soon be here. It is not a bad time to remind you of a few safety and cooling tips.

• Like a broken record Don’t, Don’t leave any dog in the car, windows down or not. Go home drop the dog off and go back for the groceries etc. Even in cool sunny weather, the temperature in the car can climb above 48°C (120°F) in 20 minutes.

• If you must drive any distance in warm weather with your dog (remember dogs can’t sweat to cool their bodies), consider driving after dark if your car is not air conditioned.

• Don’t put yourself & your dog into an overheated car, ventilate for a few minutes at least & to avoid toxic fumes don’t start air conditioning with the windows rolled up.

• Carry a water bottle while walking the dog & keep a 2nd bottle in the car in case you need to wet the dog down or more for drinking (both of you). I always keep a towel, a bowl, extra water, & first aid kits in the car. If you think the dog is panting a little harder than you would like and are at all concerned wet the towel and apply to the chest, abdomen, head, ears, and foot pads moving it around.

• The only way to know for sure if things are not too good with your dog is by taking its temperature. Keep a rectal/ or digital thermometer in the cars first aid kit if summer walks take you further than a short drive from home.

• Your dog might be having too much fun to stop playing, don’t wait for the dog to refuse to go any further, go and hide in the shade or lay down at your feet. Anticipate a slower pace and leash an over-excited dog on a hot day. Useful in the car or your backpack is a spray bottle to add to your arsenal of cooling tools. As to the effectiveness of cooling beds and jackets, its worth trying although I haven’t heard of too many people who swear by them. I’d love comments from readers who might speak to this.

• If you happen to see wildlife in the area, leash your dog. Searching for a lost dog in the blazing heat of a long summer day is one disaster best avoided.

• As with most things in dog rearing knowing your dog, its body, habits and personality are key to knowing when something is out of the ordinary. Know what your dog’s gum colour is like usually, know how quickly the colour returns if you do a capillary refill test.  This test should be done when your dog is completely well so that you know what the baseline is for your pet. firmly press on the gum above a tooth with your thumb or finger for about 3 seconds. When the thumb is removed the spot will appear paler but after 1.5 seconds the colour should return.

•  If the dog is dehydrated, the membranes will be dry and the capillary refill time will be prolonged (>2-3 seconds).

 

http://www.spca.bm/petcare/heat-stress.php

 

Read more at Suite101: How to Check Your Dog’s Gums: Learn to Examine a Sick Dog for Gum Paleness or Discoloration http://petcare.suite101.com/article.cfm/how_to_check_your_dogs_gums#ixzz0wba0oiQP

Heat stroke is most common in the large breeds and in dogs with short noses. Dogs mainly cool themselves by panting, or breathing in through the nose and out through the mouth. The process of panting directs air over the mucous membranes (moist surface) of the tongue, throat and trachea (windpipe). The air that is flowing over these organs causes evaporation, thus cooling the animal. Another mechanisms that helps remove heat includes dilation of blood vessels in the skin of the face, ears and feet. Dilated blood vessels located on the surface of the body cause the blood to loose heat to the outside air. Breaths per minute. Puppies 15-40 breaths/ minute. Dogs 10-30 breaths/minute. Toy breeds (small dogs) 15-40 breaths/minute. Dogs that are panting – up to 200 pants/minute. If the animals abdomen is expanding instead of the chest on inhalation your pet is not breathing normally. You should seek veterinary care.

A dog’s normal body temperature ranges between 100.5 Fahrenheit (38.1°C) and 102.5 Fahrenheit (39.2°C).

Like people, dogs can become overheated. If it rises to 105 or 106 degrees, the dog is at risk for developing heat exhaustion. If the body temperature rises to 107 degrees, the dog has entered the danger zone of heat stroke. With heat stroke, damage to the body can be irreversible. Organs begin to shut down, and veterinary care is immediately needed. Death from heat stroke can occur pretty quickly. The shortest interval between exposure to high heat extremes and death is about 20 minutes & usually as a result of being left in a closed vehicle.  Dogs like people need time to adjust to the seasonal changes in weather. They are most likely to experience heat stroke as they are becoming acclimated to the heat and most likely in conjunction with exercise or excitement.  

WARNING SIGNS:

heavy panting,

hyperventilation (deep breathing),

discoloured gums (deep brick red – mild to Moderate heat exhaustion,

pale white gums in severe heat stroke),

increased salivation early then dry gums as the heat prostration progresses,

weakness, stumbling or a lack of coordination,

confusion or inattention,

vomiting or diarrhea and sometimes bleeding. As the condition progresses towards heat prostration or heat stroke there may be obvious paleness or graying to the gums shallowing of the breathing efforts and eventually slowed or absent breathing efforts, vomiting and diarrhea that may be bloody and finally seizures or coma.

The most common clinical signs of Heat Stroke are weakness, loss of balance, excessive panting, roaring breathing sounds, excessive salivation, decrease in mental awareness, collapse and death. Any time that heat stroke is suspected it is best to get an immediate rectal temperature reading and to begin treatment immediately if the body temperature is over 106 degrees Fahrenheit or to stop all activity and move indoors if the temperature is less than this but elevated above 103.0 degrees Fahrenheit. Body temperatures over 107 degrees Fahrenheit are a critical emergency, because organ damage can occur at this temperature and at higher temperatures.

Treatment consists of cool water (not cold water) bathes or rinses. If the water is too cold, or if ice is used to cool a heat stroke victim it can cause a decrease or loss of skin circulation, which can delay cooling. This should be done immediately for a few minutes and then the dog should be taken to the veterinarian’s office or to an emergency veterinary clinic immediately. Most dogs will not drink water at this stage of heat stroke and it is not a good idea to spend time trying to get them to. Just go to the vet’s as quickly as possible.

Immediate treatment is critical to success when dealing with heat stroke, so delays are potentially harmful, or fatal. http://www.vetinfo.com/dheatstroke.html